Natural color - Shade variation - Process

Natural color:  The shade of clothing will reflect what roots, flowers, leaves, seeds and barks were used in the dying process.  There are around 200 herbs used to make these dyes.  

Shade Variation:  Shade difference can occur in two different batches of the same shade due largely to the fact that the numerous chemical ingredients that make up plants vary widely.  Not only do the variations occur betwoon plants of the same species, but also from part to part of the same plant.  The type and quantity of chemicals present are influenced by such factors as soil, species, weather, time of harvest as well as the part of the plant used.  The manner in which they are stored and processed also has a profound effect on its extractions.

Fading fabric:  The loss and change in color of dyed textiles upon exposure to light is a complex reaction affected by both the chemical and physical state of the dye.  External factors such as the source and intensity of illumination can affect the reaction as well.  

Process:  There are two processes for making Ayurvastra clothing.  Firstly, the yarn is medicated before weaving and secondly, the fabric is dyed after weaving.  the raw yarn is cleaned by a natural bleaching agent and dipped in Ayurvedic herbs lasting from 4 hours to several days under controlled temperature. The encapsulation is assisted by a natural gum.  It is then washed with organic soap and is allowed to then dry naturally in the shade.

Stages:

I.     The processing of Ayurvestra begins with the washing of hand loomed cloth in natural mineral-rich water and sea salts to remove its sizing, gums and oils used in the course of spinning.

II.    Fabrics are exposed to direct sunlight, then it is bleached with biodegradable, naturally derived, organic cleaning agents.

III.  To make the colors bright and fast, a number of natural mordents such as bark of Lodhra, Denduka, etc. are used.  Aluminum clays and iron clays are also used as mordent.  Mordents such as copper, chrome, zink and tin are avoided due to environmental reasons.

IV.   The organic cotton yarn or fabric is then medicated in a carefully controlled mixture of herbal medicine preparations called Kashayas, depending upon the disease or ailment being treated.  Here, the medicines themselves give natural color to the fabric.

V.     Finishing is accomplished in herbal dying by sprinkling pure water on the cloth and then stretching under pressure.

Evironmentally Eco-conscious

The entire process is organic.  It does not pollute the environment like synthetic dye.  All the waste is used as bio manure and also to generate bio gas.  This entire process is also keeping a dying weaving industry alive in India!